Skin Aging, Age Spots and Wrinkles - Alpha Hydroxy Acids

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Damage Control; Time Takes Its Toll, But It's Not Too Late to Slow Skin Aging

The Record -- Bergen County, NJ Nothing lasts forever, including the soft, supple, perfect skin we're born with. Between sun exposure and the natural aging process, skin takes a beating over the years.  And, the same skin-care products that did the job at age 25 won't help at 43. Though aging will continue to affect skin in our 60s and beyond through bruising, age spots and deeper wrinkles, it's never too late to take care of your skin - you just need to understand what's happening to it. This decade-by-decade guide will tell you what to expect, and what to do to give your skin the upper hand on future damage. Your 20's What happens:  During these years, skin is generally in very good shape because skin cells are still regenerating at a fast rate and acne problems from teenage years are subsiding. But beware, because collagen and elastin fibers that keep skin elastic and plump are starting to lose elasticity, says Debra Jaliman, a dermatologist in Manhattan and a spokeswoman for the American Academy of Dermatology. And, sun exposure incurred as a youth is already taking its toll in the form of fine lines around eyes and uneven pigmentation.  (According to the American Academy of Dermatology, 80 percent of lifetime sun damage occurs before the age of 18.) At the end of the decade, skin cell production will start to slow down. What you can do about it:  The key is to protect and prevent.  Don't wait until the next decade to start a serious skin-care regimen to combat the aging process. Choose a mild cleanser, but go easy on your skin.  Wiping too harshly can strip skin of natural oils it needs to moisturize.  Choose a moisturizer with an SPF of 15 or higher.  Quit smoking (which can wreak havoc on skin), and see a dermatologist annually for a skin cancer screening. One step further:  Try sleeping on your back.  Sleeping on the same side of your face year after year can result in wrinkles from pillow creases. Your 30's What happens:  This is the decade when skin starts to show its age.  Earlier years spent in the sun will show up as deeper lines and wrinkles around the eyes and mouth. The slowdown of cell regeneration makes skin appear dull, which is where exfoliating comes in, according to Sharon Scherl, a dermatologist in Tenafly and chief of dermatology at Englewood Hospital. "Exfoliating with alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid microscopically removes the top layers of skin," she explains.  "This not only gives skin a smoother look, but stimulates the body to make new, fresh skin." Freckles and sun spots begin to show up or become darker.  Frequent facial expressions such as squinting and smiling turn into fine lines around eyes, between brows and at the corners of the mouth. What you can do about it:  Continue your skin-care regimen and add products with ingredients such as antioxidants (e.g., vitamins C or E) to slow the damage.  Thin or sun-damaged skin under eyes will benefit from a cream or gel. One step further:  If you are overweight, now is the time to drop the pounds.  Sagging skin can be a result of rapid weight loss, and skin in its 30's is much more resilient than older skin. Your 40's What happens:  The support structures of skin, collagen and elastin as well as declining levels of the hormone estrogen in women result in deeper wrinkles, as well as loss of firmness, elasticity and moisture.  Faces are also beginning to lose their volume. "In youth, our faces are rounder, with a fuller appearance," Scherl says.  "By the time we reach our 40s, a loss of volume in the face's deeper structure results in an elongation of the face." Lips are also becoming thinner, due to the disintegration of underlying support structure. What you can do about it:  Dermal fillers such as Restylane and Hylaform can add volume and fullness to skin as well as improve the appearance of wrinkles and folds.  Horizontal lines across the forehead, vertical lines between brows and "crow's feet" around the eyes can often be improved with Botox. Adding retinoids such as Retinol, Retin A, or Renova-based products into your skin-care regimen or seeing a dermatologist for microdermabrasion and chemical peels will help keep skin smooth and fresh-looking.  Pay close attention to sun and age spots, and continue yearly visits to the dermatologist. One step further:  Certain non-invasive procedures performed with new lasers and radio-frequency devices can help reduce wrinkling and improve sagging skin. Your 50's and Beyond What happens:  Hormonal changes can bring on breakouts and dryness, while gravity brings on sagging skin.  Skin is much thinner, according to Jaliman, and thinner skin means more wrinkles; meanwhile, wrinkles formed in decades past are much deeper. With age also comes bone loss and a decrease in the structural support of the face.  The loosening of ligaments in eyelids may make them droop, impairing reading and vision. What you can do about it:  Although deep wrinkles can't be prevented, exfoliating, moisturizing and taking care to use gentler products on sensitive skin will keep it soft and smooth. And finally, although she does not advocate weight gain to improve appearance, Scherl says a slight fullness of the face can make one look more youthful. One step further:  If you're thinking of getting a facelift, consider facial implants and fillers instead. "People don't want the pulled-back look of a facelift anymore," Scherl says.  "Cheek and chin implants and dermal fillers such as Restylane give the fuller look associated with youth.  It's not a matter of looking 20 when you're 55, but looking good for your age -- no matter what the number." Order:  MicroDermAbrasion / Ultra Rejuvenex / New Face Solution

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